Venerated fashion designer Reed Krakoff, 50, was born and raised in Connecticut. A graduate of Tufts University and Parsons the New School for Design, he worked for iconic American brands Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. In 1996, he assumed creative control at Coach, where he helped grow the company’s annual sales from $500 million to $4 billion. He launched the Reed Krakoff Collection in 2010 and left Coach last year to concentrate on his own brand. From 2006 to 2010, he served as vice president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and he has been honored as the CFDA’s Accessory Designer of the Year three times, most recently in 2012. He is also a published photographer. He frequently collaborates with his wife, the Paris-born interior designer Delphine Krakoff, with whom he has four children. He lives in New York.
Jonathan Soroff: I need a good man purse. When is Reed Krakoff going to do that?
Reed Krakoff: Soon. I’m looking forward to getting into men’s in the next couple of years.
What’s the biggest payday in fashion?
For most brands, typically, handbags. Leather goods. The margins are higher, and women tend to buy more bags than other things these days. They carry one every day, after all.
Three things that define good design?
Desire is number one. You have to make someone really covet the object. Then it has to have functionality and be unique.
Thing that drives you to design?
In terms of my aesthetic, it’s still evolving. I’m heavily influenced by travel, the art world, the design world, popular culture. It’s always in flux. I think that’s what keeps the work interesting. So for me, it’s a never-ending process.
I saw your house in Elle Decor. Your wife did it, but I suspect you had some input, right?
Yeah, my wife and I do all our interior design projects together. We also do the stores. And we’re doing a project that’s launching at the Milan Furniture Fair, which is exciting.
So who’s the person in the design world whose taste you admire the most?
There’s no good taste or bad taste. There’s taste that’s developed, or not. I’m always interested in anybody with a unique approach, whether or not it appeals to me.
Do you ever doubt your own taste?
I always try to challenge it, which is different than doubting it. But I try to expand on what I think is interesting or appealing.
Icons?
Jean-Michel Frank. He only lived until his 40s, and he died 73 years ago, but his work is still relevant and copied widely today. Also in the interiors world, Jacques Grange. My wife, Delphine. And then there’s a very prominent landscape architect, Perry Guillot. His work is really fascinating to me.
Eras that you pull from the most?
It’s funny, I’m not really inspired by periods. When I do inspiration boards, there’s never a historic theme. I don’t do vintage. I’m really more about the design itself and working with fabrics and leather and materials. It’s more an aesthetic that drives me.
So you’re not a Pinterest guy?
Not in that way. I might be interested in images that catch my eye, the way colors are combined or something’s constructed, the way things are made. It’s more an abstract or structural thing.
Fashion revival you’re sick of the most?
The ’70s, by far. It just feels played out, and I don’t think it was that great the first time.
Thing you designed that still takes your breath away?
Oh, I fall in and out of love with everything I do. I don’t like to live with something too long or look at it constantly, so it changes. I have to leave it alone for a while and then rediscover it.
Ideal scent?
I designed one for my wife. One of the main components is vetiver, and then it has a citrus note to it, so it’s not totally feminine.
What do you think is the secret to reinvigorating these old luxury brands?
Every brand is unique, like people, and you really have to understand and pay attention to the personality and the history. I think that’s key. And the second is a lot of time. It takes a while.
Who would be your ideal brand ambassador?
Can I pick a few? We have a few who wear the clothing, carry the bags, wear the shoes. Michelle Obama for sure. Julianne Moore. Stella Tennant. As for someone we don’t have yet, I’ll name three: Cate Blanchett, Meryl Streep and Rooney Mara.
Do you feel like you design for women of all ages and body types?
Yeah. Definitely. The women who wear our clothes are really varied. Lots of different needs.
With iconic fashion pieces, like the Birkin or the Kelly bag, is it the mystique of the person who popularized it?
Yes, but also that you can only get that bag from that brand, and it kind of breaks a rule. It’s iconoclastic. It’s not a specific detail or color.
What do you think is the most overrated fashion house right now?
Good question. I’m hesitant to answer that. Why don’t I just say anyone who sells too much logo product.
What’s the end game for a design house?
To stay relevant. There’s no conclusion. It’s just to stay relevant, which is incredibly difficult. The market evolves. The economy changes.
Fill in the blank: ______ is the new black.
Cobalt blue.
Think gray is underrated?
It’s my favorite color. It’s the color of my stores. It’s a delicate color, but when it’s right, it’s perfect, because it can be so many things: cool, warm, masculine, feminine. It’s seasonless. I love gray.
Tim Gunn hasn’t had sex in over 20 years. Think it’s time?
It’s so funny. I’ve known him a long, long time, when he was at Parsons. I’m an alum. But I’m going to leave that decision to Tim.
Is it weird when you’re introduced to someone who only knows you as a brand?
It’s funny. When I was much younger, working for Ralph Lauren, he told a story about how he called the front desk one day, and they said, “Ralph Lauren.” He said, “This is Ralph Lauren,” and they were like, “Yes, it is.” He had to explain to the person that he actually was Ralph Lauren. So yeah, it is funny to call the office sometimes.
Thing that most people waste money on, fashion-wise?
Sale items. They think that just because it’s a good deal, they should buy it, rather than because they love it. Better to buy one thing you love at retail than five things on sale.
Your definition of luxury?
Time…with nothing that you have to do.
Reed Krakoff - Off the Cuff
The acclaimed designer dishes on logos, luxury and Tim Gunn’s love life.
Venerated fashion designer Reed Krakoff, 50, was born and raised in Connecticut. A graduate of Tufts University and Parsons the New School for Design, he worked for iconic American brands Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. In 1996, he assumed creative control at Coach, where he helped grow the company’s annual sales from $500 million to $4 billion. He launched the Reed Krakoff Collection in 2010 and left Coach last year to concentrate on his own brand. From 2006 to 2010, he served as vice president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and he has been honored as the CFDA’s Accessory Designer of the Year three times, most recently in 2012. He is also a published photographer. He frequently collaborates with his wife, the Paris-born interior designer Delphine Krakoff, with whom he has four children. He lives in New York.
Jonathan Soroff: I need a good man purse. When is Reed Krakoff going to do that?
Reed Krakoff: Soon. I’m looking forward to getting into men’s in the next couple of years.
What’s the biggest payday in fashion?
For most brands, typically, handbags. Leather goods. The margins are higher, and women tend to buy more bags than other things these days. They carry one every day, after all.
Three things that define good design?
Desire is number one. You have to make someone really covet the object. Then it has to have functionality and be unique.
Thing that drives you to design?
In terms of my aesthetic, it’s still evolving. I’m heavily influenced by travel, the art world, the design world, popular culture. It’s always in flux. I think that’s what keeps the work interesting. So for me, it’s a never-ending process.
I saw your house in Elle Decor. Your wife did it, but I suspect you had some input, right?
Yeah, my wife and I do all our interior design projects together. We also do the stores. And we’re doing a project that’s launching at the Milan Furniture Fair, which is exciting.
So who’s the person in the design world whose taste you admire the most?
There’s no good taste or bad taste. There’s taste that’s developed, or not. I’m always interested in anybody with a unique approach, whether or not it appeals to me.
Do you ever doubt your own taste?
I always try to challenge it, which is different than doubting it. But I try to expand on what I think is interesting or appealing.
Icons?
Jean-Michel Frank. He only lived until his 40s, and he died 73 years ago, but his work is still relevant and copied widely today. Also in the interiors world, Jacques Grange. My wife, Delphine. And then there’s a very prominent landscape architect, Perry Guillot. His work is really fascinating to me.
Eras that you pull from the most?
It’s funny, I’m not really inspired by periods. When I do inspiration boards, there’s never a historic theme. I don’t do vintage. I’m really more about the design itself and working with fabrics and leather and materials. It’s more an aesthetic that drives me.
So you’re not a Pinterest guy?
Not in that way. I might be interested in images that catch my eye, the way colors are combined or something’s constructed, the way things are made. It’s more an abstract or structural thing.
Fashion revival you’re sick of the most?
The ’70s, by far. It just feels played out, and I don’t think it was that great the first time.
Thing you designed that still takes your breath away?
Oh, I fall in and out of love with everything I do. I don’t like to live with something too long or look at it constantly, so it changes. I have to leave it alone for a while and then rediscover it.
Ideal scent?
I designed one for my wife. One of the main components is vetiver, and then it has a citrus note to it, so it’s not totally feminine.
What do you think is the secret to reinvigorating these old luxury brands?
Every brand is unique, like people, and you really have to understand and pay attention to the personality and the history. I think that’s key. And the second is a lot of time. It takes a while.
Who would be your ideal brand ambassador?
Can I pick a few? We have a few who wear the clothing, carry the bags, wear the shoes. Michelle Obama for sure. Julianne Moore. Stella Tennant. As for someone we don’t have yet, I’ll name three: Cate Blanchett, Meryl Streep and Rooney Mara.
Do you feel like you design for women of all ages and body types?
Yeah. Definitely. The women who wear our clothes are really varied. Lots of different needs.
With iconic fashion pieces, like the Birkin or the Kelly bag, is it the mystique of the person who popularized it?
Yes, but also that you can only get that bag from that brand, and it kind of breaks a rule. It’s iconoclastic. It’s not a specific detail or color.
What do you think is the most overrated fashion house right now?
Good question. I’m hesitant to answer that. Why don’t I just say anyone who sells too much logo product.
What’s the end game for a design house?
To stay relevant. There’s no conclusion. It’s just to stay relevant, which is incredibly difficult. The market evolves. The economy changes.
Fill in the blank: ______ is the new black.
Cobalt blue.
Think gray is underrated?
It’s my favorite color. It’s the color of my stores. It’s a delicate color, but when it’s right, it’s perfect, because it can be so many things: cool, warm, masculine, feminine. It’s seasonless. I love gray.
Tim Gunn hasn’t had sex in over 20 years. Think it’s time?
It’s so funny. I’ve known him a long, long time, when he was at Parsons. I’m an alum. But I’m going to leave that decision to Tim.
Is it weird when you’re introduced to someone who only knows you as a brand?
It’s funny. When I was much younger, working for Ralph Lauren, he told a story about how he called the front desk one day, and they said, “Ralph Lauren.” He said, “This is Ralph Lauren,” and they were like, “Yes, it is.” He had to explain to the person that he actually was Ralph Lauren. So yeah, it is funny to call the office sometimes.
Thing that most people waste money on, fashion-wise?
Sale items. They think that just because it’s a good deal, they should buy it, rather than because they love it. Better to buy one thing you love at retail than five things on sale.
Your definition of luxury?
Time…with nothing that you have to do.
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