Whether they’re hopping behind the bar for a celebrity-studded fundraiser or fraternizing over heaped plates of penne arrabiata in a corner booth, pro athletes come to play at these North End and harborside Italian spots from restaurateur Nick Varano. His boisterous hospitality is a big reason sports icons like Shaq, Rob Gronkowski and Wes Welker have been known to light up the scene—and the faces of starstruck fans.