This is how it starts: You bring a cocktail—let’s make it mezcal—to your lips, and suddenly, you’re enveloped by a nectarous fog of elderflower foam. You’ll long to hover indefinitely, but your attention soon turns to some duck-fat fries. Douse them in sriracha aioli, and poof—they’ll be gone. A samurai film plays above the bar; watch intently, wise one. You’ll need to channel your inner warrior to save room for multiple orders of bao, brimming with suckling pig and kimchi.