Longtime Ana Sortun lieutenant Cassie Piuma took the refined, Turkish-centered, Mediterranean-spanning fine-dining finesse of Oleana and democratized it at this spacious spot near Prospect Hill. Patrons are treated to a dizzying roundelay of flavors and textures in small-plate form, lubricated by bar manager Vikram Hedge’s superb cocktails and affordable wines and beers. Nightly meze specials tempt diners via plates carried, dim-sum-like, through the dining room. Sarma slyly wraps kitchen genius in unpretentious neighborhood-joint comfort. Go before Piuma gets her overdue James Beard Award.