The Stoked folks did the harder thing first, somehow shoehorning a wood-fired pizza oven into a food truck, then opening a brick-and-mortar space. Their new, non-mobile oven turns out a superlative thin-crust pie with a light char and a deep, yeasty flavor developed over a two-day fermentation. Umami-rich toppings like mushrooms, deeply caramelized roasted onions and top-notch salumi are applied with just the right light touch. Add a smart, up-to-the-minute, tightly curated bar program, and you’ve got a destination pizzeria.
As you’d expect, the pies at this pizza-focused Somerville sib to Cambridge fave Area Four are killer, with a 12-year-old starter giving rise to dough that’s fermented for three days, finished in a custom wood-fired oven and heaped with toothsome toppings, like the soppressata, sausage and bacon of the aptly named Carnivore…...