After watching him on the small screen on Bravo’s Top Chef, it’s sort of surreal to be a fork’s width away from Carl Dooley as he turns out stellar prix fixe menus from this intimate Cambridge operation’s open kitchen. It has the feel of a dinner party with the most congenial host in town, and the classy new American cuisine is just as excellent on the standing wine bar menu, filled with gourmet snacks like rillettes of rabbit leg.