When chef Michael Serpa left the North End’s intimate Neptune Oyster Bar to open his own restaurant, he picked a similarly smallish space. But Select sends out seafood plateaus fit for Poseidon—or Papa: The multi-tiered assortments top out at the towering “Hemingway” ($325), which spills over with enough oysters (two dozen), shrimp cocktail (one dozen), crab salad, dressed lobster, tuna tartare and more (a lot), for four to eight guests. Bigger’s not always better. But sometimes it is.