Wine
Adventurous Blends
Most of the wines we buy are made with a predominant grape featured conspicuously on the label (chardonnay, cabernet). Marketing by the grape makes it easier for customers to remember what they like. But there are great wines that blend varietals into a delicious, harmonious whole. The following are amazing examples of rich, intense blended reds that are innovative expressions of their terroir.
Masi “Campofiorin” Rosso del Veronese IGT,
Veneto, Italy, 2008 ($20, University Wine):
Masi is a sixth-generation winemaker and the biggest Amarone producer. With a mix of 70 percent corvina, 25 percent rondinella and 5 percent molinara, this medium-bodied, earthy red has a raisiny quality, but it’s vibrant and a bit smoky on the palate. A lovely selection with spicy stew or gumbo.
Emiliana Coyam,
Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2009 ($30, Marsh’s Liquor Store)
Produced at South America’s largest organic winery, this wine uses six grapes, including syrah, carménère and merlot. It’s got a roasted coffee and blackberry flavor with strong tannins and a lingering, tobacco-like finish. Great with barbecued ribs.
Vall Llach “Embruix”,
Priorat, Spain, 2007 ($25, the Spirited Gourmet):
Primarily garnacha, carineña and cabernet sauvignon, this wine from the mounta inous Priorat zone on Spain’s Catalan coast is made from grapes grown in rocky black-slate soil. It’s got a velvety richness, with a spicy licorice-and-pepper edge to the black cherry flavors. Lingering and savory, it’s a great match for wood-grilled tuna steaks.
Bodega DiamAndes “Gran Reserva”,
Mendoza, Argentina, 2007 ($40, Cambridge Wine & Spirits):
Crafted high up in the Uco Valley, this is mostly malbec, with 30 percent cabernet sauvignon added for structure. Owned by a producer from Bordeaux (where they know a bit about blending), it’s got a silky, palate-coating chocolate flavor and a finish of mineral earthiness. Outstanding with grilled beef.
Casa Lapostolle “Clos Apalta”,
Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2008 ($85, Bauer Wines):
This carménère, cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend put Chile on the map
when the 2005 vintage was named Wine Spectator’s top wine of the year. It’s a dark, intense red with herbal hints and lush black-fruit notes. With strong tannins, this is one to decant and serve with rack of lamb.