Sandy Block, M.W.
Photo Credit: Dan Watkins

As far as I’m concerned, it’s always time for Champagne. That said, most Champagne consumption in this country centers solely on celebrations and the flagship “brut non-vintage” category that dominates the market. If you want to expand your horizons, the following three choices are consistently delicious.

 

Brut Zero  Ayala Brut “Zero Dosage” NV, $52, Federal Wine & Spirits

This category is for lovers of extremely dry Champagnes. As the name indicates, there’s almost no sugar to balance the tart acidity. (Some houses that make a non-dosed Champagne will list it as “nature.”) The Ayala is well balanced, with a bit of a lemony sting, but is also very creamy on the palate. Its minerality and chalkiness make it a great choice for lovers of Sancerre or Chablis. A plate of poached
new scallops would be a heavenly accompaniment, as would sushi (hold the wasabi).

 

 

 

 

Rosé  Veuve Clicquot Rosé, Brut NV, $65, Bauer Wine & Spirits

If Champagne is festive, rosé Champagne takes the party to another level. Veuve produces an appealingly bright, strawberry-scented rosé: very dry, with undertones of darker red berries. It tastes slightly fuller than most brut NVs and works wonders with meatier fish preparations, such as roasted monkfish
or grilled swordfish. It also pairs with charcuterie and milder cheeses.

 

 

 



Demi-Sec  Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec NV, $60, the Wine Press

This is for those who like a taste of balanced sweetness. Made with considerably more sugar than other Champagnes, the demi-sec (meaning “half dry”) from Veuve Clicquot has a ripe fruit aroma—peaches and apricots—to balance the usual pastry scents. It’s got a supple, lush texture that makes it a great partner to flans, custards and fruit-based desserts, as well as mildly spicy Asian dishes.