Sarah Wade has only been working in  Boston for six months, but it’s been plenty of time for the chef of the forthcoming Lulu’s Allston to discover that the city has broken free of its baked beans and chowder stereotypes.

“The creativity that Boston residents accept from chefs is really cool. It’s exciting to see what chefs can do and people will pay money for,” says Wade, who has cooked all across the country and spent the past six months working at the Hill Tavern and Woody’s Grill and Tap. “I’ve been places where you say, ‘Let’s try this,’ but nobody else wants it.”

The mantra for Lulu’s, slated to open by mid-May at the former Cafe Brazil, is funky and food-focused—hence a menu of options such as wild-game Frito chili pie and curry caramel popcorn. Vegetarians can gravitate toward the Thai-quinoa black-bean burger, while vegans can try the ramen with roasted mushrooms, spinach and rice noodles. Wade also plans a few beer-influenced dishes, and with Lulu’s offering 50 drafts and 50 bottles, she’ll have a prime selection of suds. Brew-boosted dishes will include saison-steamed mussels, porter-braised pork shank and a Harpoon Stout milkshake.

“This may sound silly, but I like Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” Wade says. “I think it’s cool that there’s always something on the menu that the neighbors like enough to suggest it to the show. That’s kind of how I think about it when we put together the menu.”

Neighborhood appeal was front and center for Lulu’s co-owners Josh Culpo and Justin Dalton-Ameen as well as majority partners Mark Murphy and Peter Culpo (Josh’s uncle and owner of the Parish Cafes, among other restaurants). Affordability was key: Appetizers will range from $7 to $10, while entrees will be mostly $10-$16. And as Harvard and New Balance embark on new construction in the Allston area, the folks behind Lulu’s Allston hope to stand out amid a sea of college dives, sports bars and restaurants focusing on ethnic cuisine.

“There’s not a ton of comfortable places you can go, get a really good meal at an easy, fair price, and not feel like you’re at a sports bar or some place you have to go crazy to have a good time,” Dalton-Ameen says. Lulu’s space seats just more than 100 and has eclectic decor, with a wall of reclaimed shutters from a New Bedford salvage yard and another wall of Lulu’s logos painted with Warhol-esque colors.

“What you see now was four different rooms. It’s a semi-open kitchen, with a free, easygoing vibe,” he says. “We’re just trying to make a really great experience that won’t kill you in the wallet.”

 

Lulu’s Allston | 421 Cambridge St., Allston | 617-787-1117 | lulusallston.com

Lulu's Allston


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