French Kiss

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Sauvignon blanc has taken off lately thanks to its over-the-top citrus and uncompromising acidic flavors that harmonize beautifully with a lot of current food trends. The original French versions have none of the tropical flavors we’ve come to expect from New Zealand offerings, and they do not share the high-alcohol bite of their Californian cousins. These three picks are stars in the minimalist, bone-dry style that France’s cool northern terroirs excel at producing.

Domaine de la Perriere, Sancerre, 2013

This estate-bottled wine shows a bit more finesse and richness, as one might expect from the chalky hillside vineyards of Sancerre. Floral and delicate, with a lemon fragrance, it’s crisp but also gentle on the palate. The finish is a bit earthy, and it would work beautifully with a goat cheese tart or cold seafood salad.

$20, Trader Joe’s, Cambridge

Fournier Sauvignon, Vin de Pays de Loire, 2013

Wow! For the price, this is amazing: tart and fresh, with piercing grapefruit, tarragon and lemongrass accents. A classic lean French sauvignon, it has a stony finish that lingers, suggesting a great accompaniment for a fish fry or herb-rubbed grilled seafood.

$13, Beacon Hill Wine

Simonnet-Febvre, Sauvignon de St. Bris, 2012

Oysters, anyone? The only sauvignon blanc produced in Burgundy, from a small commune of fewer than 400 acres, this has a stark saline minerality. It’s a very exciting wine, angular with pinpoint aromas and vibrant lemon flavors.

$16, Brookline Liquor Mart


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