No. 9 Park has been rolling out its cheese cart since opening its doors in 1998, but the lineup is always changing, as server and cheese buyer Kevyn Ashton brings in a rotation of nearly 20 daily options, most sourced from Formaggio Kitchen. “There’s a lot of cheeses that we’ve seen time and time again,” says Ashton, like staff favorite Brebirousse d’Argental. “But it’s fun to introduce ones that I’ve not seen, because that means our guests probably haven’t.” Some diners are visiting weekly to check out what’s new, whether that’s at the bar, as an appetizer or as a dessert course (assistant general manager Ashley Waugh’s top recommendation). However guests dig in, wheeling the cart over gives servers the opportunity to answer questions. “The contrast in texture is really what grabs people,” Ashton says, adding, “If you’re like me—I’m a visual cheese chooser.”
-“I like cheeses that have that semi-firm sort of paste to them, so they’re not too oozy and they’re not too hard,” Ashton says, pointing to the Grayson, made of cow’s milk, and the Casatica, a bloomy-rind cheese made of buffalo’s milk. “As it tempers, it definitely has a saltiness to it—it’s an explosion of flavors.”
- -Valserena, a Parmigiano-Reggiano handpicked by chef Barbara Lynch, is available in two forms, which Waugh suggests tasting together. “One’s aged for 12 months and it’s a little bit softer, not quite as robust in its nuttiness, and the 48-month starts to develop those protein crystals—a really savory, nutty experience.”
-As for “funkier” options, look to washed-rind cheeses, doused in everything from beer to spirits and salt brines. No. 9 Park often serves Époisses de Bourgogne, a brandy-washed cheese from Burgundy that brings earthy, meaty notes. Ashton also suggests Ouleout, named for a creek that runs through Walton, New York. “It’s made by a gentleman who started in cheese illegally in Brooklyn—in his basement apartment,” Ashton says. “He decided to go legit, and he’s now with his wife on a dairy farm.”
- -For beverage pairings, Waugh prefers bubbles. “Champagne goes really well with creamier washed-rind cheeses; the brioche-y, bread-y autolytic flavors meld really nicely with the meatier, more savory flavors of those types.” Ashton, meanwhile, offers a suggestion that steers away from the typical pairing of blue cheese and port, pointing instead to a botrytized wine from Austrian producer Kracher that’s made from grapes infested with the friendly fungus Botrytis cinerea. “I really love that wine because it does have that sweetness and it does have some acidity, which can help clean up the palate a little.”
No. 9 Park 9 Park St., Boston (617-742-9991) no9park.com
Off the Carts
From baristas to bartenders, hospitality pros weigh in on tableside offerings you can roll out at your own holiday bash.
By Sarah Hagman | Photo Credit: Holly Rike | Nov. 11, 2016
No. 9 Park’s Cheese Cart
No. 9 Park has been rolling out its cheese cart since opening its doors in 1998, but the lineup is always changing, as server and cheese buyer Kevyn Ashton brings in a rotation of nearly 20 daily options, most sourced from Formaggio Kitchen. “There’s a lot of cheeses that we’ve seen time and time again,” says Ashton, like staff favorite Brebirousse d’Argental. “But it’s fun to introduce ones that I’ve not seen, because that means our guests probably haven’t.” Some diners are visiting weekly to check out what’s new, whether that’s at the bar, as an appetizer or as a dessert course (assistant general manager Ashley Waugh’s top recommendation). However guests dig in, wheeling the cart over gives servers the opportunity to answer questions. “The contrast in texture is really what grabs people,” Ashton says, adding, “If you’re like me—I’m a visual cheese chooser.”
-“I like cheeses that have that semi-firm sort of paste to them, so they’re not too oozy and they’re not too hard,” Ashton says, pointing to the Grayson, made of cow’s milk, and the Casatica, a bloomy-rind cheese made of buffalo’s milk. “As it tempers, it definitely has a saltiness to it—it’s an explosion of flavors.”
-As for “funkier” options, look to washed-rind cheeses, doused in everything from beer to spirits and salt brines. No. 9 Park often serves Époisses de Bourgogne, a brandy-washed cheese from Burgundy that brings earthy, meaty notes. Ashton also suggests Ouleout, named for a creek that runs through Walton, New York. “It’s made by a gentleman who started in cheese illegally in Brooklyn—in his basement apartment,” Ashton says. “He decided to go legit, and he’s now with his wife on a dairy farm.”
No. 9 Park 9 Park St., Boston (617-742-9991) no9park.com
3 of 5
NextView All Events
Related Articles
A Final Bow
If you’ve ever had a Hoodsie Sundae Cup...
Tigers Love Pepper, They Hate Cinnamon
Artisan Approach
Building Something New in Allston...
Comfort, Enjoy
A stalwart expands to a neighborhood in transition...
28 Days Later
The evil genius behind jm Curley’s foie gras-glazed jelly donut may not seem the likeliest candidate to co-found a wellness app...
Ports to Call
Whoever loves chocolate (and who doesn’t?) needs to know about port...
Architect of a Meal
Scelfo's Designs for Alden & Harlow...
Spice Route
With bold Turkish fare, Sarma makes an impressive debut...