If you only know okra as a gooey gumbo thickener, a pickle or simply another fry job, you owe it to yourself to order the grilled version at The Frogmore. At the recently opened Jamaica Plain restaurant, the whole spears (sourced locally when possible) take a turn over fire until they develop delicate char and subtle smokiness, but retain every bit of their fresh snap and interior caviar-like crunch. Tossed with chopped field tomatoes and bits of sweet cipollini onions, it offers a fresh and simple profile that co-owner Alex Homans says showcases the restaurant’s Lowcountry style.

Grilled Okra, $8 at The Frogmore, 365 Centre St., Boston (857-203-9462) thefrogmore.com