Going Out

Photo Credit: Emily Knudsen

By B. N. Lee

Strip-T’s  
93 School St., Watertown
617-923-4330 | stripts.com

“I hate my food,” chef Tim Maslow declares sullenly. It’s a surprising statement, considering the phenomenal fare Maslow creates at Strip-T’s, a Watertown diner owned by his dad, Paul. The 27-year-old chef acquired his perfectionism during a five-year stint in David Chang’s Momofuku restaurant empire in New York, where a culture of withering smack downs prevented culinary complacency. Since returning to the family business almost a year ago, Maslow has set his restless, critical eye on revamping the dinner menu while sticking to lunchtime standards for loyal customers. For someone whose cooking is motivated by anxiety, and even self-hatred (“I loathe myself—I get tired of a dish in a week,”), Maslow’s inspired cuisine radiates confidence. Every dish is polished, a result of rigorous experimentation that’s at once imaginative and elegantly restrained. In a word, Maslow’s food is badass.

Take the buttermilk fried chicken ($15). Served with sautéed kale and a choice of grits or a crisp waffle, the dish is a conversation starter even before it reaches the table. That’s because the leg is attached to a chicken foot planted like a flag on the plate, and, depending on your adventurousness as an eater, it’s either saluting you or flipping you off. Always accompanied by nervous titters from diners on each of my three visits, it’s the most popular item on a menu that changes according to seasonal availability and, more importantly, Maslow’s whims. A quarter of a bird brined for three days and fried in chicken fat, the skin yields a satisfying crunch while the meat is steeped in juice. My favorite item, however, was a roast duck ($18), served as a special one night. It would’ve cost twice as much and tasted only half as good if ordered anywhere in Boston. A medium-rare breast with mahogany skin arrived draped over a square of fried turnip cake with the consistency of custard. Offset with sautéed turnips and radishes and a bright cranberry mostarda, the combination seamlessly melded New England ingredients with a dim-sum staple. Almost as good as the duck was the whole broiled rainbow trout ($18). Served butterflied, the fish’s delicate sweetness was enhanced by a roasted chestnut sauce and thinly sliced hen-of-the-woods mushrooms.

Although there’s no trumpeting of cultural influences on the menu, Maslow shows a deft hand with herbs, spices and staples usually associated with different ethnic cuisines. Seasonings taste precise yet uncontrived. For instance, he uses orange lentils and chili to make a savory base for his steamed P.E.I. mussels ($10-$14). Spicy chorizo and salty cotija cheese draw out the nutty quality of his roasted cauliflower ($7). The pickled carrot and daikon in his Japanese eggplant banh mi ($9) make for the tastiest veggie sandwich I’ve had in recent memory, while smoked miso and lemon aioli bring out the umami flavors of Strip-T’s burger ($13).

The only dish that disappointed was the chicken wings ($8), which came out rubbery in parts and charred in others. Texture aside, it was pretty standard fare. There’s also room for improvement in the dessert and wine lists. Despite the fact that Strip-T’s doesn’t have a pastry chef, the kitchen turns out a decent chocolate cake, but it could use more options. Same for the wines by the glass, which seemed a random amalgamation. The beer selection, on the other hand, is a tribute to area breweries and includes Somerville’s Pretty Things’ Babayaga ($14) and Holyoke’s High & Mighty Beer of the Gods ($5).

This is my first five-star review, and as a critic, I must admit I’m wary about giving it to Strip-T’s. That’s because the hole-in-the-wall almost makes too good a story—the hidden gem, the humble diner chef with a glamorous New York–trained pedigree, the father-son dynamic. But after multiple visits, the restaurant continues to impress. May Maslow keep loathing his food, as all evidence is to the contrary.

B.N.’s Picks

Roast duck

Cauliflower

Banh mi

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Hours: Mon.-Fri., 7 am-10 pm; Sat., 11:30 am-10 pm.
Reservations: Only between 5-6 pm
Credit Cards: Yes
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Parking: Street
Liquor: Beer and wine