A Barbara Lynch establishment doesn’t cut any corners, and that’s especially true in the case of B&G’s intricately crafted New England clam chowder, in which onions, celery, and leeks have sweetly steeped. White wine has been reduced, Yukon Golds have yielded to cream and milk, and savory bacon lardons bob alongside tender Topneck clams. The resulting robust potage is balanced with puff pastry croutons—cayenne-covered, they provide perfect quick hits of heat and crunch. You might add a final dash of salt with tears of joy.
Still one of Boston’s finest New England seafood restaurants, this tiny, eternally crowded space taunts impatient locals intolerant of long waits to get seated...