When you think “dim sum,” you may imagine a vast yet crowded room where a flurry of hands fly as food carts wheel by. At Winsor, you won’t witness such theatrics; the space is small, and a checklist menu replaces rolling trays. But you will find excellent, high-value eats, like paper-thin, translucent dumplings chock-full of pork and peanuts, pillowy orbs of custard buns, patties of pan-fried turnip cake to dip in occult XO sauce, and comforting bowls of warm congee. This is what food-as-theater should be.
When most folks hear dim sum, they think of those frenetic, large-scale places where trolleys are wheeled about, and sitting in the wrong corner can mean long delays between the kitchen and your chopsticks…...