Once you venture outside steak house territory, it’s pretty gutsy to let your proteins stand alone and encourage guests to choose sides of starch and veggies. But Steve “Nookie” Postal has every reason to feel confident in his restaurant/market’s build-your-own-dinner program. Mains are cooked to perfection: Red snapper and flat iron steak are never at war with excess ingredients or drowning in sauce. They are just mindfully, lovingly, expertly prepared. Simplicity done so well is uncommon indeed.