Another veteran chef goes solo and achieves awe-inspiring results. Michael Pagliarini opened his rustic-looking Italian restaurant to quick acclaim, and anyone who has sampled his nightly assortment of handcrafted pastas knows why. The chef emphasizes traditional preparations, as in orecchiette with extraordinary housemade pork sausage, but adds the occasional of-the-moment frisson, like whey-braised rabbit on emmer farro casarecce. And he has wisely brought along hits from past gigs, like a superb vegetable antipasto. The net effect is a lovely, homey, heart-warming affair.