In a neighborhood that knows plenty about dramatic entrances, Ostra has made quite the splash. Its setting is immaculate: Whole fish repose on an ice bed flanking a polished open kitchen, and horseshoe crab-imprinted chargers anchor tables in the white-columned dining room. The equally gorgeous (and totally delicious) seafood is served Mediterranean-style—the branzino is baked in salt, the sea bream anointed with extra-virgin olive oil. As piano music drifts from the lounge, you get the sense that you’re dining on some distant shore, where it wouldn’t be at all surprising to find a pearl in your oyster.