Grill 23 is still the boss of beef. It’s always had excellent timing—tenderizing rib-eyes with a 100-day age, or pulling lavishly marbled 10-ounce Kobe caps from the flames just as they begin to blush, so every medallion is evenly crimson. And in honor of its 30th birthday, the Grill wisely invested in its future, unveiling a major renovation of its downstairs bar, where small plates are wallet-friendly and cask-strength single-malt flights can be sipped by the big picture windows.