The Island Creek team’s Fort Point seafood slinger (which just spawned a twin in Portsmouth, New Hampshire) has billed itself as a “workingman’s oyster bar,” but it’s beer director Megan Parker-Gray who does a bang-up job with the ambitious beer program. Old-fashioned letter boards announce the oft-unfamiliar brews that flow from 24 rotating taps, from Maine farmhouse ales to Czech pilsners, many smoked, soured or barrel-aged. These aren’t suds for lawnmowers or lunch pails, but urbane worker bees with elevated expectations.
Row 34
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