It’s a lunchtime staple—but even done well, a club sandwich can be the menu’s beige paint: a nondescript background element amid more eye-catching offerings. Luckily, Henrietta’s doesn’t do the sandwich well; it does it spectacularly. Toasted challah bookends bacon, lettuce, tomato, lemon-chive mayo and the best bird in Harvard Square: rotisserie-roasted chicken crusted with seven herbs and a maple-horseradish mustard. (Got all that?) This is the VIP club experience.