The advent of Boston restaurants specializing in lesser-known regional Chinese cuisines is among our favorite recent dining trends. This Brighton Center storefront offers the trendy mala pot, a spicy build-your-own soup, but its unique satisfactions originate in Central and Western China: Henan, Shaanxi, Chongqing and Xinjiang provinces. At its center are lamb dishes with hand-pulled noodle (a single coiled strand of wide, dense pasta) made fierce with garlic, chilies, cumin and numbing Sichuan peppercorn. It’s hearty, bracing and supremely affordable.