While we weren’t looking, Washington Square morphed into a genuine dining destination, exemplified by this inviting, unpretentious room with a fascinating menu that makes stops in Eastern Europe and both coasts of the Western Mediterranean. A fine cocktail program and a comfortable patio are big assets, but Fairsted’s greatest strength is its insistently warm hospitality. Many restaurants in Boston serve great food; few places also make their customers feel so sincerely loved and well cared for.