Working-class Eastie deserves more respect than it gets, especially for its bounteous assortment of traditional Mexican, Central American and South American restaurants. A great first step to shedding I-don’t-do-tunnels provincialism is to visit this superb exponent of Peruvian cuisine, maybe starting with a great fish-and-shellfish ceviche and continuing to jalea, a heaping, expertly fried fisherman’s platter. An attractive dining room, gentle prices and imported alfajores (anise-tinged dulce de leche sandwich cookies) should seal the deal.