When Brewer’s Fork opened early last year, residents of restaurant desert Charlestown would have settled gladly for its great wood-oven pizzas, gastropubby small plates and Moody’s charcuterie. But co-owner Michael Cooney (ex-Publick House) added the kind of crafty, far-ranging, of-the-moment beer lineup that hardcore brew buffs dream about: 30 drafts, a half-dozen bottles and cans, and five serious ciders, all served by a deeply literate and clearly passionate staff. It’s a hoppy draft of heaven, always poured into the proper glass.