There’s an ocean of prosecco flooding the market—sweetish, foamy, cheerful—but the good stuff is few and far between. The same producers keep winning the blind tastings I hold twice a year, just to see if anything has changed. It’s not that these perennial favorites are much more expensive, they just pack more flavor—mineral edginess, crisp acidity and refreshing spice—into the popular bubbly than the competition.

Desiderio Jeio Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Brut NV

Jeio has an extra element of perfume: fresh peaches, green apple and nectarine. Round and soft in texture, but with a bright citrus accent, this is an all-purpose prosecco for everything from light canapes to seafood salads and salt-cured meats. 

$16, Urban Grape, South End

Zardetto “Z” Prosecco, Brut NV

If you prefer a middleweight wine, the Z is ideal. It has floral melon aromas and a soft, creamy texture. The crisp minerality and notes of tangerine, lime and Granny Smith apple are dry and layered on the palate. Enjoy it with mildly spicy curries.

$15, Bauer Wine & Spirits, Back Bay

Borgoluce, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore, Brut NV

This has the engaging charm of a fresh-baked apple pie. It’s bone dry and lively with the depth and concentration one would expect from its origins on the sloping hills of Valdobbiadene, prosecco’s star region. Mellow and nicely balanced, it’s a fine aperitif.

$20, Gordon’s, Waltham

Sandy Block is a master of wine and the vice president of beverage operations for Legal Sea Foods.