When chef Brian Poe took over the menu at Kenmore Square’s Lower Depths earlier this month, there was public outcry over the initial removal of the subterranean beer bar’s signature tater tots. But fear not: Tots remain—and the new offerings at the still-cash-only Poe’s Taco Room at Lower Depths are worthy additions. Indulge in a Kenmore Tot-co for old times’ sake, but don’t overlook the Rocky Point grilled shrimp taco. Served two per basket, the flour tortillas are filled with ancho chili-seasoned sauteed shrimp, pickled red onion, cotija cheese, chipotle crema and a salsa of cucumber, tomatillo and mint for a taste that’s crisp and refreshing. “It’s a real clean, real Mexican, real fresh flavor,” Poe says.

Rocky Point grilled shrimp tacos, $11 at Poe’s Taco Room at Lower Depths, 476 Comm. Ave., Boston
(617-266-6662) thelowerdepths.com

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