Chef/owner William Kovel’s honeymoon in France, and run-ins with rotisserie-equipped food trucks, sparked the idea for this spit-roasted chicken—but expertise honed at Michelin-starred Jardinière and Boston’s late, great Aujourd’hui accounts for the execution. Spectacularly juicy free-range bird, roasted 45 minutes, is treated simply with salt and pepper. Cleverness comes in seasonal accompaniments, like the recent rabe with roasted purple potato, hen of the woods mushrooms, lemon confit and Madeira jus.