In an age when everything from music playlists to newsfeeds is hyper-curated to our known tastes, there’s giddy excitement in letting a chef steer us to unexplored epicurean territory. Fine-dining vet Peter Ungár helms his 20-seater in unlikely digs: the same spare warehouse that’s home to the hipster-baiting Aeronaut Brewing. Three-course lunch and nine-course dinner journeys are intimate and whimsical, full of flavorful surprises and the spirit of theater (fitting, since each seat is secured through advance online ticketing).