Rene Becker, founder of this now-iconic Cambridge baking biz, used to be a food critic— which may explain the palpable pursuit of perfection that embodies Hi-Rise. Besides bread, ever-changing splays of cookies are a hi-light here, especially signature Oreolike treats of fudgy chocolate sandwiching vanilla cream. The secret is in Becker’s scrupulous sourcing, starting with a bakery’s base: butter. He uses European-style Plugra, known for its high butterfat content—and the flavor that comes with it.