The Allston original and its new Kenmore Square sibling both specialize in the hearty, endlessly variable, texturally lovely, spicy-as-you-want-it sundubu jjigae (soft-tofu stew). But there’s plenty more to adore in their bare-bones spaces, starting with above-average banchan (wee complimentary side dishes), vivid bibimbap, big plates of mild dumplings and pan-fried noodles, LA-inspired Korean truck tacos, clay-pot short ribs and grilled, ferociously spicy pork. It’s a versatile crowd-pleaser for both veteran Korean food lovers and neophytes alike.