Some spots just heap thousands of toppings on a bed of fries, then call it poutine. That’s not the case at Café du Pays. The French-Canadian inspired newcomer to Kendall Square takes a minimalist approach much more faithful to the Quebecois: fries, gravy (made with meat stock thickened with fried chicken skin) and Vermont cheese curds, left classically unmelted. It’s a respectful rendition that would impress even our neighbors to the north. Grade: “Eh”-plus.