The best mentorships are marked by mutual respect and shared benefit. In the crush of Greek cuisine that recently hit Boston, Schlow’s conventionally sleek Doretta Taverna & Raw Bar was a high-profile opening. But in November, Schlow tapped Pelley, a hotshot riding high on the buzz of his own Hellenic pop-up Pelekasis (a nod to his family name), to steer Doretta as chef de cuisine—and contemporize the veteran restaurateur’s approach. Now feta-festooned classics coexist with unexpected ideas like cinnamon-spiced egg pasta with braised rabbit and fried cheese fondue with pickled cranberry.
“We were successful at the traditional stuff, but Brendan brings a whole slew of new, modern ideas,” Schlow says, praising Pelley’s “balance of confidence and curiosity.” Pelley’s adventurousness also earned the approval of Schlow’s wife, Adrienne, whose Greek heritage inspired Doretta in the first place. “She’s an artsy-fartsy weirdo like me,” laughs Pelley. “She doesn’t just want old family recipes on the menu.”
Meanwhile Pelley, who previously considered opening a permanent Pelekasis location, says Schlow’s storied career, which encompasses nearly a dozen restaurants between New England, LA and DC, is a motivating model for his own future. “He’s given a lot of advice about big-picture business stuff,” Pelley says. “At my interview, he cooked me a five-course meal. Usually it’s the other way around. But that’s the kind of hospitality that runs through his company.”
“There’s much more ahead for him,” Schlow says. As a dad, he is also encouraging Pelley to spend as much time as possible with his newborn son, Cyprus. In food or family, it pays to foster the future.
Perfect Pairings
By Scott Kearnan | Photo Credit: Holly Rike | Feb. 10, 2017
Brendan Pelley & Michael Schlow
The best mentorships are marked by mutual respect and shared benefit. In the crush of Greek cuisine that recently hit Boston, Schlow’s conventionally sleek Doretta Taverna & Raw Bar was a high-profile opening. But in November, Schlow tapped Pelley, a hotshot riding high on the buzz of his own Hellenic pop-up Pelekasis (a nod to his family name), to steer Doretta as chef de cuisine—and contemporize the veteran restaurateur’s approach. Now feta-festooned classics coexist with unexpected ideas like cinnamon-spiced egg pasta with braised rabbit and fried cheese fondue with pickled cranberry.
“We were successful at the traditional stuff, but Brendan brings a whole slew of new, modern ideas,” Schlow says, praising Pelley’s “balance of confidence and curiosity.” Pelley’s adventurousness also earned the approval of Schlow’s wife, Adrienne, whose Greek heritage inspired Doretta in the first place. “She’s an artsy-fartsy weirdo like me,” laughs Pelley. “She doesn’t just want old family recipes on the menu.”
Meanwhile Pelley, who previously considered opening a permanent Pelekasis location, says Schlow’s storied career, which encompasses nearly a dozen restaurants between New England, LA and DC, is a motivating model for his own future. “He’s given a lot of advice about big-picture business stuff,” Pelley says. “At my interview, he cooked me a five-course meal. Usually it’s the other way around. But that’s the kind of hospitality that runs through his company.”
“There’s much more ahead for him,” Schlow says. As a dad, he is also encouraging Pelley to spend as much time as possible with his newborn son, Cyprus. In food or family, it pays to foster the future.
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