This Mediterranean seafood restaurant might be the younger sibling of high-end heavy hitters like Mistral and Sorellina, but its sophistication belies its years. Clad all in white, Ostra exudes elegance—and its EVOO-speckled Continental cuisine, from salt-crusted whole branzino to trevisano leaf-wrapped sea bream, speaks a language of Old World class. Glistening glass wine-bottle displays and live piano set a mood: Fine dining isn’t dead—she was just changing into something a little more comfortable.