Cantabrigians and industry types hoof it to this upstairs bar, behind an unmarked door next to sibling restaurant Central Kitchen. Even as an early-evening quiet yields to a buzzy din, the place keeps a cozy feel. Maybe it’s the warm tones in the brick walls and the copper-topped, horseshoe-shaped bar that feels like a drinking circle. More likely, it’s servers who reward regulars with gestures like Ponies in the Surf, a kitschy horse head-shaped mug that garners guffaws—and goodwill—as it makes the rounds.