By Linh Tran Brincat

Napa Valley evokes images of lush abundance. Rows of pendant grapes unfurl in jade green, scrolling into the horizon. Baskets of tourists float under bright balloon canopies chasing the sun. Shiny wine glasses stand at attention like crystalline footmen. Those idyllic associations might hold true in the warmer seasons, but a visit to the famed Northern California region in winter highlights qualities lost during the peak rush: the rugged landscape, the elegant simplicity of its cuisine and the magical way a sip of its most popular export, cabernet sauvignon, can unlock the nuances of the soil.

If refined yet comfortable surroundings appeal to you, check into Meadowood, a resort with spacious rooms decorated in a Pottery Barn aesthetic. White-washed wood rafters, slipcovered sofas and a neutral palette of taupe signal modesty, but the Frette linens, Molton Brown bath products and country club facilities are purest decadence. Located in St. Helena, about a two-hour drive northeast from San Francisco International Airport, the hotel is a distillation of the area’s best features. The Restaurant at Meadowood boasts three-stars from Michelin (the only other three-star restaurant in the state is the French Laundry, a couple of towns over), and the property includes four and a half miles of walking trails on sloping hills that yield vistas of native vegetation packed with wild turkeys and deer. If you’re a wine novice, the onsite master sommelier can customize a guided tour.

Since it’s a special circle of hell to be the designated driver in wine country, book a chauffeur with Beau Wine Tours. The company’s drivers are experts in the region’s history, and also in its gossip. They’ll spin colorful stories about the old wine-making families as they transport you to the mission-style Mondavi estate. Most often associated with its budget label, Woodbridge, Robert Mondavi also bottles impressive higher-end vintages. Bypass the lines upstairs and opt for an exclusive cellar tour, where you might be treated to the 2005 cab, with its salty Kalamata notes redolent of the neighboring olive trees. Also carve out time to visit Cakebread in Rutherford, where the grapes are sourced from locations picked for their unique growing conditions. Make sure to sample the small-batch cab from Dancing Bear Ranch, which gets its intense, spicy notes from the rocky earth.

Bold, robust cabs require high-protein and high-fat foods that can stand up to them. You’ll find both at Thomas Keller’s brasserie Bouchon. Roasted meats, terrines and foie gras aplenty are ideal accompaniments to a day on the wine trail. For a meal to linger over, however, head to Redd, Richard Reddington’s acclaimed restaurant. Creative dishes like sole with creamy jasmine rice, clams, chorizo and a saffron curry nage are skillful plays on California’s diverse seasonal ingredients. Should you feel your palate needs some fine-tuning, stop by the Culinary Institute of America, located in a grand stone monastery. There, you can take quick flavor tutorials on topics ranging from olive oil and chocolate, to, of course, wine.

There’s nothing wrong with a good Bacchanalia, but Napa is no Cancún. Its fine vintages and cuisine benefit from a slower, more contemplative tour. With hundreds of wineries in the region, you’ll have to make peace with the fact that you won’t be able to experience everything in one trip.


Traveler's Checks

• If you’re planning on dining at the Restaurant at Meadowood, note that it’s closed for renovations until
March 22.

• Stock up on picnic provisions at the Oxbow Public Market, located in the city of Napa, where you can pick up specialty cheeses and charcuterie for an impromptu feast.

 

Meadowood
900 Meadowood Lane, St. Helena | 800-458-8080 | meadowood.com 

Robert Mondavi Winery
Highway 29, Oakville | 888-766-6328 | robertmondavi.com 

Cakebread Cellars
8300 St Helena Hwy, Rutherford | 800-588-0298 | cakebread.com 

Beau Wine Tours
21707 8th St. East, Sonoma | 707-938-8001 | beauwinetours.com

Bouchon Bistro
6534 Washington St., Yountville | 707-944-8037 | bouchonbistro.com 

Redd
6480 Washington St., Yountville | 707-944-2222 | reddnapavalley.com 

The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone
2555 Main St., St. Helena | 707-967-1010 | ciachef.edu