Bibim is where you go in Allston for Korean home cooking in a cozy dining room, but Meju, the Kim family’s newly opened Davis Square restaurant, steps out with an urban vibe, cocktails and smaller shareable dishes like pajeon. The kitchen nails this crispy fried pancake, available with either scallions and potatoes or excellent homemade kimchi, the mess of fine-cut vegetables disrupting a rice flour batter that’s lacy on the exterior but retains just enough glutinous chew within. They serve it ripping hot, which makes the pieces tricky to dunk in the sesame-soy dipping sauce—but oh-so satisfying.

Pajeon, $12 at Meju, 243 Elm St., Somerville (617-764-3053) mejuboston.com