The big draw at Shepard, Porter Square’s much-anticipated collaboration between René Becker and Susan Regis, may be the wood-burning oven, but the Peter McKenzie-helmed kitchen has a talent for dairy products that you don’t want to miss. Eat anything that comes with the house-cultured butter (grilled oysters, orecchiette, bread), but most of all order the chamomile ricotta. It’s a smooth, fine version perfumed just right with wild chamomile that the staff forages locally. Scoop it up with the rich, tender rye crackers and honey that come alongside, or savor it by the spoonful.

Chamomile ricotta, $6 at Shepard, 1 Shepard St., Cambridge (617-714-5295) shepardcooks.com