As it enters its 23rd year, Franklin Cafe is returning to its roots by reviving some old-school favorites, including the organic chicken with 20 cloves, a comfort food classic that incorporates sherry, thyme, lemon and garlic for a bright and balanced bite. “The slow roasting brings out the elegant and often overlooked gentler nature of garlic,” says David DuBois, who is back as head chef with partner Phil Audino after an eight-year absence that saw them open six other spots, including Our Fathers. And to the delight of night owls and industry folks, the South End standby slings its full menu until 1:30 am, meaning this dish may also keep vampires at bay during your jaunt home.

•••

Organic chicken with 20 Cloves ($22) at the Franklin Cafe, 278 Shawmut Ave., Boston (617-350-0010) franklincafe.com