Kamakura’s Maine cod with mushroom is a bit of culinary time travel. Served a la carte and as part of the tasting menu at the new downtown spot, the dish features fresh fish marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, mirin and sake and fuses traditional Japanese grilling with modern execution—the bite is cooked on an iron rod over infrared heat. Chef/owner Youji Iwakura, formerly of UNI, Basho and Somerville’s Snappy Ramen, finishes the cod with a sweet glaze of Maine uni miso and a touch of yuzu kosho: a paste of chiles, fruit peel and salt. “You taste the cod, then citrus and then heat after four or five seconds,” Iwakura says of the balanced flavor that lingers long after the last bite.

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Maine cod with mushroom, $16 at Kamakura, 150 State St., Boston (617-377-4588) kamakuraboston.com