Inspired by beachside seafood shacks, Eventide Fenway is Maine-based Big Tree Hospitality’s first foray into Massachusetts, joining Portland eateries Eventide Oyster Co., Hugo’s and the Honey Paw. One of the menu’s stars is the fish sandwich—the hipper, younger cousin of the classic fish filet. Served on a sesame seed bun, the fried, panko-crusted hake’s topped with pickles, lettuce and a homemade tartar sauce that brings a burst of summer on a gray afternoon. According to Big Tree co-founder Andrew Taylor, the secret to the deep flavor is a dressing cribbed from Japanese cuisine: “Tare is a rich, soy-based sauce that we drizzle over the filet for just a little additional umami flavor.”

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The fish sandwich, $10 at Eventide Fenway, 1321 Boylston St., Boston (617-545-1060)
eventideoysterco.com