For those still mourning the shuttered Thailand Cafe, Kendall Square’s mismarked haven for solid Sichuan food that closed in 2013, there’s renewed hope farther up Mass. Ave. At Cilantro, a Harvard Square newcomer that undersells its expertise with Sichuan dishes, the fish fillet with spicy chili sauce is particularly good: a vat of silky fish fillets and just-tender green cabbage submerged in a thick broth laced with dried chilies, Sichuan peppercorns and the unmistakable savory depth of chili broad bean paste. Don’t forget the rice.

Fish fillet with spicy chili sauce, $16 at Cilantro, 1105 Mass. Ave., Cambridge (617-945-1768)