Think of the moqueca soup at Hooked Fish Shop as the lighter cousin of clam chowder. “We knew we would have chowder on the menu, but we wanted something that’s gluten-and dairy-free,” says chef and commercial fisherman Jason Tucker, who helms the shop and to-go eatery that opened in late September with Jimmy Rider. The Bow Market spot’s menu items meld far-flung inspirations with fresh local catches, including this riff on a traditional Brazilian recipe. “It’s a personal favorite of mine,” Tucker says. “It has a lot of garlic, ginger, cumin and paprika, so it’s very flavorful.” With chunks of whitefish, tomatoes and fresh herbs to brighten the coconut milk, that first spoonful just might make this warming elixir your new favorite, too.

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Moqueca, $6-$9 at Hooked Fish Shop, 1 Bow Market Way, Somerville (617-684-5716) eathooked.com