Chef burgers can often feel like hackneyed pet projects, but sometimes they’re a whimsical way for the kitchen to show some attitude. You’ll find the latter at Little Big Diner, the latest local outlet for tasty, cheerfully inauthentic takes on Asian classics and chef/owner David Punch’s second contribution to Newton Centre’s once-sleepy dining scene. His LBD Flat Patty reads likes a trademark to the menu: an ultra-beefy griddled burger cushioned in a super-soft King’s Hawaiian bun and done up with sweet-hot pineapple sambal, frizzled onions and mayo. That flavor profile—not to mention its $9 price—make it a standout.

LBD Flat Patty, $9 at Little Big Diner, 1247 Centre St., Newton (857-404-0068) littlebigdiner.com