Compared to his glistening seafood powerhouses with the Island Creek Oyster crew, Jeremy Sewall’s soft-spoken firstborn, Lineage, isn’t a shellfish destination. But the Coolidge Corner dining room, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this winter, does lay claim to one of Sewall’s most prized lobster dishes: spicy lobster tacos. The gist is a classic, if not tired-sounding, combo of lobster, mango and avocado. But it’s been a mainstay on the menu since day one because the execution is so spot on: squeaky-clean shucked meat that’s jumbled with jalapeno-flecked chunks of fresh mango and anchored to crunchy corn tortillas by a stripe of satiny avocado mousse.
Spicy lobster tacos, $15 at Lineage Restaurant, 242 Harvard St., Brookline (617-232-0065) lineagerestaurant.com