There are plenty of fish to be found at Saltie Girl, the new 28-seat restaurant from MET Restaurant Group’s Kathy Sidell—and even more ways to prepare it. In addition to smoked, potted, fried and raw dishes, executive chef Kyle McClelland serves up tinned seafood such as mussels, octopus and cockles. One standout variety is Arroyabe ventresca tuna belly in olive oil, plated alongside housemade butter, piquillo pepper jam, sea salts and a dense buttermilk-based Nordic bread. Already popular in Spain and France, this isn’t your standard grocery store fare. Sidell explains: “People are looking at what year fish was tinned and buying it by vintage the way you would buy wine.” Cheers to that.

Arroyabe ventresca tuna belly in olive oil, $19 at Saltie Girl, 281 Dartmouth St., Boston (617-267-0691) saltiegirl.com